It took a five hour train ride to reach Roma from Venice, and a five minute taxi ride to our hotel, The Grand Palatine, on Cavour, two blocks from the Colosseum, and surrounded by fabulous restaurants like Trattoria de Valentino (fantastic osso bucco and cannelloni) and Cleto's (try the veal t-bone!). Upon arrival at the hotel, we dropped our bags and immediately went sightseeing. First stop, Pizza & Mortadella, a deli with a hot food counter where we loaded up on carbs and cheese tastes, kind of like Italian tapas, while we adjusted to the frenetic Roman pace. From there we grabbed our bus passes at a local tabachi, and hopped on the Metro to find the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. There were hella people there, and the next day while descending the stairs to the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City, a couple from Columbus told us that there was a reason for the mob scene that night. J-Lo was shopping in the plush stores in the area, and she still draws a crowd. We walked and walked and got lost, which is a different kind of lost from Venice, where you can just look up at buildings and see signs guiding you. Rome is a big city and you have to have a basic sense of where you are and where you are going.
Being lost did take us to the Pantheon and eventually back to the Metro where we cooled our sore heels and rode back to the hotel. Rome is a totally different trip than Venice, all loud, brash, urban craziness, but imbued with the life-embracing joviality that we typically associate with Italians. They're so warm and friendly. By our second day, we had shopkeepers and restrauteurs giving us a holla as we walked by.
We managed to make it by the Trevi Fountain at least once a day every day. Of course, I threw three coins in the fountain. Lamarr overheard a tour guide explaining that throwing one coin in means you will return to Roma; two means you will fall in love there; and three coins indicates you will be married there. Lamarr threw two coins in. I know one thing: our friendship deepened and grew during our wonderful Italian journey.
It took two tries to get into Saint Peter's Basilica. The first time it was closed as the Pope was entertaining foreign dignitaries in front. They did have huge video screens in front of Saint Peter's, so we can say we got to see the Pope in person while we were there! We managed to get into the basilica on our second try, and they were getting ready to have Mass celebrated so there was a limit on how many could enter. We had a good look at this magnificent church that is so huge many other famous churches could fit easily inside its walls.
We had two memorable meals in Vatican City. One was at a trattoria on a side street where we dined alfresco on one of the unseasonably warm days we enjoyed there. I wish I remembered the name of the place. We just stumbled on it and it was good! The other was a Rick Steves recommendation, Parilli in Prati, where we had the lunch buffet, delicious Italian specialties in a modern atmosphere.
We did not neglect our proscuitto and gelato pursuits by any means. We continued sampling both at least once each day. On our last afternoon in Rome, we tried three flavors at the premier Roman ice cream shop, Gelateria Della Palma and walked away smiling. Three blocks later we looked at ourselves and said, "Hey, let's go back!" There were a bunch more flavors we knew we had to try! Gelato just tastes different and better in Italy, and Della Palma are the masters.
The Colosseum was also fascinating, just walking around and within that massive wonder of the world and thinking about what transpired there all those centuries ago was a trip. Outside they have athletic-looking men dressed as Roman soldiers complete with helmets, armor and short skirts who will pose for photos with you if you like. Leaving the Colosseum, we were approached by a couple who let us know explicitly that they would be amenable to more than photos if we were so inclined. Now that was a moment!
Another moment, and a real highlight of the visit for me, was telling my story to a group in Saint Andrews Church one chilly, foggy Roman night. That group lifted me up and gave me total inspiration in just over an hour.
Shopping was also terrific. We found a hot little shop called Others with clothes we hadn't seen before and I guess we went a little crazy. They didn't seem to mind.
All too soon our Rome Advenure was over and it was time to jet home. It's funny. I have a feeling it wasn't our last visit. Ciao, Roma! Arriverdeci, Bella!
No comments:
Post a Comment